Monday 19 August 2013

Day twenty-one - Sunday

So I’d made plans to drive over to Knoydart way today, and climb Sgurr na Ciche. This involved getting up at 0830 however, and when my alarm went off it was raining outside and I needed little persuasion to discard my phone and bury my head under the covers again. Around 3 hours later my day began...

After a lazy Sunday morning (/early afternoon) breakfast I wrote up my post from the ceilidh last night before hopping into the Polo and setting off towards Arisaig, on the road to Mallaig. It was still spitting rain and very windy – secretly I was glad that I’d not gone for the walk, even if it had been more out of laziness than planning! The drive was spectacular, along the banks of Loch Eil. The colours were spectacular; the bright oranges on the rocks around the shore giving way to deep greens of the pine forests before the greys and browns of the tousled tops of the hills – Scotland is so beautiful in its wildness.





Before long I arrived at the Glenfinnan memorial and viaduct. There’s a little visitor centre there, which I managed to park up in avoiding a ticket! The view was amazing down Loch Shiel, one of the deepest lochs in Scotland. The north ridge of Sgurr Ghiubhsachain (849m) looked impressive, and the whole place exuded a deep sense of calm. Looking the other way was the equally impressive Glenfinnan viaduct – the scene for the Harry Potter Hogwarts Express train journey.

Further along the road the next spectacle was near the Prince’s Cairn, where the road emerges from the land to weave a path along the brink of the sea, and in the process passing under a smaller rail viaduct, framing the view west along Loch Nan Uamh. Wow. Continuing north I turned off left to Glenancross a few miles short of Mallaig. After a quick stop to paddle in the golden sands of the Morar Sounds I parked the car in Glenancross and set off up the highest nearby hill, Beinn an Achaidh Mhoir, at the modest height of 88m. The summit gave great views of the beaches and across to the islands of Eigg and Rum. I also caught my first glimpse of the Black Cuillin, this time shrouded in rain clouds.

Bahama's eat your heart out!

Amazing deserted beaches! Rum in the cloud, with Eigg on the far left

Not a person in sight
I descended the northwest side to gain a fantastic sandy beach, empty. Strolling along the sands, looking out towards the islands with the ferocious winds feeding the waves crashing into the rocks I couldn’t believe I had the whole place to myself! After rounding a rocky headland I caught sight of the main attraction, Camusdarach beach, one the best beaches in this area of Scotland. Walking along that stretch of sand there were some gorgeous border collies out – three adult dogs and a puppy that must only have been a few months old, probably having its first taste of sea air! I want one...

The dramatic outline of Eigg


Back in the car I headed down into Arisaig town, before enjoying the drive back to Fort William. Possibly enjoyed it a little too much, and my thoughts occasionally turned to the black box sitting in my dashboard, wondering how the last corner would affect my weekly rating! I had one installed as part of my insurance, as it halved the cost of a year’s insurance. So far my scores haven’t been too bad, although trying to keep pace with the BMW infront along the banks of Loch Eil may have dented them slightly for this week.

I nipped back to the house briefly before heading to the Crofter in town for a Sunday dinner with Brett, Tom and Eleanor. The gourmet burger went down a treat as we watched Barcelona smashing their opponents in the Spanish league, 6-0 at half time... Drinks continued at Cobbs bar afterwards, where the conversation encompassed everything from personal happiness to religion, good light discussion topics over a pint! Tom provided the lift back to the house and I managed to catch John for a quick catch up. Skyped home and then MOTD2, first weekend of the premiership – always comes around so fast. Had to watch on iPlayer though as they had Scottish football first at 2230 followed by MOTD2 at 2315 on BBC! Outrageous. Car going in for MOT tomorrow...

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